If you have a set of Rhino Ramps that keep sliding on your garage floor every time you try and pull your car up on them, we have the cheap and easy fix. No more drilling holes in your concrete and placing rebar dowels in them to hold the ramps. No more long wooden 2x4's braced between your wall and ramps.
Go to just about any hardware store or retail store and purchase drawer liner. It's the same stuff I line my tool box drawers with. It is a tad rubbery feeling and textured. Place a strip of it under each Rhino Ramp and your car won't push the ramps any longer. It will drive right up them with the greatest of ease.
Saturday, April 27, 2013
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Big things ahead...
There are some big things ahead for InstallUniversity in the way of documentation. We hate to cut this short with a tease but start checking back every few days if you are at all interested in the LSX engine platform. :-)
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
Memory lane: Spraying gas in the car by accident
I was going over my install pages when I ran across this old but goody installation. I learned first hand which gasoline hose was pressurized and which was not. I also learned that Febreze is a miracle worker.
Click here to read!
Click here to read!
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Honda Ridgeline
I have added a Honda Ridgeline to the garage! Don't worry everyone, I am still a man but I was looking for a replacement for my Honda Pilot (there is no equal to a Pilot in that category) but I wanted a bed. So here we are with a Ridgeline.
The installs are already piling up. Check them out and let us know if you have any special requests!
The installs are already piling up. Check them out and let us know if you have any special requests!
Thursday, March 7, 2013
Mocking up the transmission cooler brackets. I hope to get this fitted tonight. Thanks to Phil at Matchstick Racing for getting everything cut and drilled for me.
Monday, February 25, 2013
F-Body Pinion Angle
There are many theories, "experts," highly respected experienced racers, and thoughts regarding pinion angle. Count the stars in the sky and you can bet there are just as many ways documented to measure and set your pinion angle. Here at Install University, we want to give a clear and concise look at how we measure and set the pinion angle.
The goal of setting pinion angle is to have both the angle of the transmission and centerline of the pinion parallel with each other under full load conditions. This is accomplished by measuring the angle of the transmission and adjusting the angle of the pinion correctly.
Measuring your pinion angle
A digital protractor makes the job much easier along with an area clear of obstructions under the yokes. You will also need to be able to rotate the rear tires so you can rotate the pinion yoke so the rear tires must be off the ground but the suspension must be at ride height. It does not matter if your car is exactly level, just that it is safe to get underneath without the threat of rolling, shifting, or falling on you or someone else. Always face the yokes from the same side (driver/passenger) of the car when measuring. We choose to always approach the car from the driver side.
Level the transmission yoke so the solid part of the yoke is level in the cross section. Place the digital protractor on the yoke of the transmission running parallel with the car. Record this measurement. In this case an angle falling from the front of the car to the rear of the car of 2.2 degrees was measured.
Level up the yoke on the pinion gear and place the digital protractor on the yoke running parallel with the car. The angle measurement in this case was 0.3 degrees rising from the rear of the car to the front of the car.
The transmission tail shaft angle is 1.9 degrees lower than the pinion angle (-2.2 + 0.3 = -1.9 degrees). When the car goes under full load and the transmission tail shaft raises up the assumed two degrees, both transmission and pinion angles are equal at zero. This puts the pinion angles in the same angular plane as each other and gives you the best possible scenario for your drive line.
Now that you know how to calculate your pinion angle there is one more variable that should be taken into account. The weight of the driver. Weight must be added to the driver seat equaling the weight of the driver before measuring the pinion angle.
At this point some reading this are yelling at their computer screen. "But the internet says I need a negative three degree pinion angle!" Yes, the interwebs do say silly things like this with everyone always perpetuating the incorrect idea.
The goal of setting pinion angle is to have both the angle of the transmission and centerline of the pinion parallel with each other under full load conditions. This is accomplished by measuring the angle of the transmission and adjusting the angle of the pinion correctly.
A digital protractor makes the job much easier along with an area clear of obstructions under the yokes. You will also need to be able to rotate the rear tires so you can rotate the pinion yoke so the rear tires must be off the ground but the suspension must be at ride height. It does not matter if your car is exactly level, just that it is safe to get underneath without the threat of rolling, shifting, or falling on you or someone else. Always face the yokes from the same side (driver/passenger) of the car when measuring. We choose to always approach the car from the driver side.
When you raise or lift the pinion angle you are are directly rotating the rear lower control arm angle effecting the anti squat of the car. This may or may not lead to better tire grip depending on the car. Realize the angle of the rear lower controls arms are an important factor in traction. You can adjust the angle of the rear lower control arms with the use of relocation brackets. What that angle should be will depend entirely on testing you do at the track while finding out what works and what doesn't for your car.
1999 Z28 M6 to TH400 Conversion: A Year Later
You can see the progress that has been made below. Not impressive after you realize we have been going on 13 months. Don't worry. We are on a kick to get this knocked out as soon as possible. My four year old doesn't even believe the car runs and can't remember riding it a year ago before it went up in the air. Therefore, this has to get done or else.
- Console removal
- Driveshaft removal
- Exhaust rearrangement
- Torque arm removal
- Transmission removal
- Clutch and flywheel removal
- Rear Engine Cover Bolts Swap
- Flex plate installation
- Starter removal
- Convertor installation
- Starter Installation
- Transmission Mount Installation
A quick article on calculating your pinion angle is up next. The article also covers checking the down angle of your transmission after you install the mount and crossmember. It is important to know if your transmission is within or close to the factory settings before going forward. It would not be the first time a LS1 after market parts supplier bent a crossmember incorrectly causing problems for the end user.
So stay tuned and know there is more to come.
-Eric
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)